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Hiroshima

Out side of Japan, Hiroshima may be mostly known for its involvement with the  atomic bomb. I’ll admit, even being an enthusiast of japanese culture, this is what I thought as well. But, that mind set has certainly change. 

I’ll first get the heavy stuff out of the way. That is, our walk through the Atomic Bomb Memorial. We had left Nara pretty early in hopes to get to the hotel, drop off our stuff, and get to the memorial before it closed. We made it with plenty of to spare, which was good because it was a lot to go through. 

I won’t get into the political and moral debate, nor do I plan to. From the moment you enter the memorial, img_6441.jpgthere isn’t a feeling of taking sides or placing blame. It is about what happened in Hiroshima and to the people living there at the time of and after the bomb was dropped. There were pictures taken minutes after the bomb exploded 500 meters above the ground from various viewpoints of the city. There are also lots of pictures of people and houses/buildings (or lack thereof) from the aftermath on display, as well as articles of clothing, various utensils, housewares, and a multitude of other things that were collected from various points within the blast radius. 

For those interested, the following is a quick science lesson, which was also provided at the memorial, about the atomic bomb(s). The explosion was a nuclear fission reaction which involves a specific mass of material is shot at a larger mass of uranium  (or plutonium). This then splis into an unstable mass and continues to split it’s self apart, down to an atomic level. These splits create an enormous amount of energy as well as some byproducts of radiation (specifically alpha, beta, gamma, and neutron). While there is plenty of more detail to go into,  the main points are that there was a large amount of energy, equivalent to 20 kilotons of TNT (which is still way too big for me to even comprehend), and gamma/neutron radiation resulting from the blast. 

When the bomb exploded, everything very very close was completely or nearly vaporized by the blast energy, and everything further out, but still within a certain range, experienced either extreme heat or extremely highimg_6457.jpg dosages of the worse kind of radiation. The aftermath of the bomb was just unbelievably devastating. Aside from immediate destruction of the landscape, the heat and radiation would claim over 140,000 lives from the instant of the blast, only days after, all the way up to years after the event (due to latency of various cancer). I will spare any more details, as there is so much more informative sources. One img_6445.jpgof he last things we saw was a recent event, in which US President Barack Obama had visited Hiroshima and wrote a letter of peace to add to the memoria,s collection, advocating peace and nuclear disarmament. This was also the first time since the atomic bomb was dropped that an America president had visited Hiroshima.

We then decided to surpress our sorrow and sadness with some food (I’ve heard that usually works), so we went to a 3-story restraunt that serves local Okonomiyaki お好み焼き. It’s been described in different ways: img_6468.jpgJapanese pizza, Japanese pancake, Japanese omelet/noodle sandwich. Regardless of how it’s described, this Japanese noodle-sandwich-pizza-omlete was delicious! It’s made on a large griddle where patrons sit around the edge surrounding the chef (kind of like the setup for hibachi) and once it’s made, it’s placed on the section of the griddle in front of you to keep it warm while you eat. 

Throughout dinner, we attempted to slide some Japanese into our conversation while the chefs were nearby. They must have appreciated it because they ended up asking about ourselves and while our Japanese wasn’t perfect (we said many times ‘mou ichido kudasai’/’can you repeat please?’) we all shared a good laugh. It definitely brought our spirits back up and made for a good end to the day. 

Day two in Hiroshima involved an early morning boat to an island called Miyajima 宮島. It was unofficially img_6501.jpglabeled one of the three most scenic spots in Japan by a Confusian scholar named Shunsai Hayashi in the 1600s and 14% of its land is designated as World Heritage area. 

On that 14% lies tons of temples and shrine, specifically the Itsukushima Shrine 厳島神社. This Shinden style shrine was built in 593 AD to provide dedication to three Munakata goddesses, all deities of the sea, traffic safety (nautical traffic), fortune, and accomplishment. This temple was pretty large in a lateral sense (not particularly tall) but its uniqueness was the water it was built over. Standing on pilings, the temple hovered over a shallow bay like area, and during the day the tide would reveal different structuresimg_6486.jpg laying along the sand, like steps and circular wells (best I can do for a discription; apologies). Looking outwards towards the sea from this temple, a large cedar torii called Otorii 大鳥居 ( 大 means big, 鳥居 is a Shinto archway ) stands out of the water 16.6 meters and weighs 60 tons. You can walk out to it once the tide goes out, which we did later in the day (along with every other tourist and their mothers…literally). 

We then worked our way up the mountain, however, unlike our last few mountain hikes, this one was a bit img_6526.jpgeasier. There are hiking trails available, but they also have ropeways  (cable cars, gondolas, insert any other names for suspended box on a cable here) to bring you to a 430 meter visitor station. From there it was only another 100 meters to the peak, but because it was a very windy  and shallow path, so the ascent took about an hour. The summit was definitely a sight to behold and provided a nice break from the sun. 

The hike down was much smoother. We even made a small detour to the Miyamajinja shrine 御山神社 (that Kanji was super difficult to find), passing some large killer hornets on the way. It ended up being closed, but in hindsight, the detour put us at perfect timing to reach Kiezu-no-Reikado Hall (not figuring out the Kanji for img_6578.jpgthat). This is were the original “eternal flame” burns and has been burning for 1200 years! Entering the hall is difficult at first. Many people pay respects by burning incense, and with the already burning fire in the middle of the building (which is only 3 meters by 3 meters), smoke engulfs you, stinging the eyes and lungs. But pushing through was entirely worth it because as I said, time was on our side. Right above the fire is a large, cast iron pot. You may imagine, like we did, that the pot was for display purposes only and s off limits to touch. To our disbelief, two women reached over to remove the lid, then proceeded to dip a large spoon into it to pull out some water. “Whoa! That’s cool! They are going to through it in the fire or something for prayer or respect….why are they puttng it in a cup?!” As we watched, they turned to us, asked if we wanted some and so became one of the coolest moments of the trip. Sitting in a smoke filled room next to two older women, drinking sacred water, boiled over a 1200 year old flame. Every sip seemed to cool us down some how and forget that there was even smoke in the room. It was relaxing, surreal, and peaceful. All the noises from outside disappeared and the moment itself felt like it was lasting an eternity. Unfortunately we were to zoned out to remember take any pictures, but even if we did, it wouldn’t have felt quite right.

After that, we finished the hike and ropeway backback down to get some food and then catch the ferry. Ignoring the touristy feel to Miyajima is tough, but once we did, we realized how well worth the visit was.

Bonus – there was a lot of deer here as well and I like deer, so hear are more deer pictures. 

Getting back to the hotel, we noticed on the back wall a few moments layed out on a table. It turned out to be photos of some pretry important people, one of which being John Kerry. The hotel had recently held the G7 summit. Guess or hotel was much more important than we originally thought (aside from  it being very nice).

Nagoya Grand Sumo Tournament

Today was a long one, but filled with non stop excitement. After a light breakfast we made a straight shot to the Nagoya Gymnasium for the Grand Sumo competition.

Sumo is a traditional competition to show feats of strength and power. Though it’s origins predate the Edo period (samurai, shogun and swords era), an organized tournament was not initiated until mid 1600s. Through out the years, Shinto religion played a huge part in morphing the sport from a brute based scene to a ritualistic one.

I use to watch Sumo a lot when I was younger. It was the only interesting thing on ESPN at 6am. After today I realized they cut out a lot from the tournament and individual bouts. Lets start from the beggining of the tournament.
Its East vs West, and the day is broken up into three main competitions; the juniors, the mid levels, and the head hanchos. These classes aren’t broken up by age but instead level of skill and experience. As you would assume though, the junior class had a majority of young, aspiring Rikishi 力士 (this is the name of the person who competes. Sumo is the event and sport itself). The classes arent linked to ech other, each has their own winner between the East and West. I’ll skip a head to the kings of the ring since the lower two classes are very similar except for having less rituals.

“Rituals? What rituals? They just stomp there feet and run at each other!”, you might say. It was surprising how much of the competition was ritualistic and how much was actual action. Before anyone does battle, all the Rikishi from the East walk out in these beautiful aprons (costing up to $20,000 each) and circle the ring while having there names called. They do a chant, walk off and then the West does the same. The ring is made of of dirt and is constantly swept and cleaned. This person called a 呼び出し (which is actually multiple people who switch out with each other to give the others a break) yell out the names of each Rikishi using an almost singing – like voice. This call wasn’t just to announce who was up next, but to call upon the opponents to do battle such that the gods would hear. Once the opponents entered the ring, there is approximately seven more minutes of tradition as the Rikishi continuosly reach their hands to the gods asking for their aid in battle,  throw salt in the ring to purify it of evil, and bow to one another and the gods. Once all this was done, the Rikishi would have at it. And what lasts for all of a minute (at most), is the stupendous force of to immovable clashing together in a fight for victory. 

So, about 12% of the match is action. And while it may seem odd that ESPN always chose to cut out the other 88% when I was younger, I’m glad they did. Watching all of the tradition unfold on television just wouldn’t have done it justice. There was a universal atmosphere that really gets under your skins and excites you to be part of the crowd, to watch with constant anticipation, and to feel like that one minute of battle lasted forever.