Month: July 2016

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Hiroshima

Out side of Japan, Hiroshima may be mostly known for its involvement with the  atomic bomb. I’ll admit, even being an enthusiast of japanese culture, this is what I thought as well. But, that mind set has certainly change. 

I’ll first get the heavy stuff out of the way. That is, our walk through the Atomic Bomb Memorial. We had left Nara pretty early in hopes to get to the hotel, drop off our stuff, and get to the memorial before it closed. We made it with plenty of to spare, which was good because it was a lot to go through. 

I won’t get into the political and moral debate, nor do I plan to. From the moment you enter the memorial, img_6441.jpgthere isn’t a feeling of taking sides or placing blame. It is about what happened in Hiroshima and to the people living there at the time of and after the bomb was dropped. There were pictures taken minutes after the bomb exploded 500 meters above the ground from various viewpoints of the city. There are also lots of pictures of people and houses/buildings (or lack thereof) from the aftermath on display, as well as articles of clothing, various utensils, housewares, and a multitude of other things that were collected from various points within the blast radius. 

For those interested, the following is a quick science lesson, which was also provided at the memorial, about the atomic bomb(s). The explosion was a nuclear fission reaction which involves a specific mass of material is shot at a larger mass of uranium  (or plutonium). This then splis into an unstable mass and continues to split it’s self apart, down to an atomic level. These splits create an enormous amount of energy as well as some byproducts of radiation (specifically alpha, beta, gamma, and neutron). While there is plenty of more detail to go into,  the main points are that there was a large amount of energy, equivalent to 20 kilotons of TNT (which is still way too big for me to even comprehend), and gamma/neutron radiation resulting from the blast. 

When the bomb exploded, everything very very close was completely or nearly vaporized by the blast energy, and everything further out, but still within a certain range, experienced either extreme heat or extremely highimg_6457.jpg dosages of the worse kind of radiation. The aftermath of the bomb was just unbelievably devastating. Aside from immediate destruction of the landscape, the heat and radiation would claim over 140,000 lives from the instant of the blast, only days after, all the way up to years after the event (due to latency of various cancer). I will spare any more details, as there is so much more informative sources. One img_6445.jpgof he last things we saw was a recent event, in which US President Barack Obama had visited Hiroshima and wrote a letter of peace to add to the memoria,s collection, advocating peace and nuclear disarmament. This was also the first time since the atomic bomb was dropped that an America president had visited Hiroshima.

We then decided to surpress our sorrow and sadness with some food (I’ve heard that usually works), so we went to a 3-story restraunt that serves local Okonomiyaki お好み焼き. It’s been described in different ways: img_6468.jpgJapanese pizza, Japanese pancake, Japanese omelet/noodle sandwich. Regardless of how it’s described, this Japanese noodle-sandwich-pizza-omlete was delicious! It’s made on a large griddle where patrons sit around the edge surrounding the chef (kind of like the setup for hibachi) and once it’s made, it’s placed on the section of the griddle in front of you to keep it warm while you eat. 

Throughout dinner, we attempted to slide some Japanese into our conversation while the chefs were nearby. They must have appreciated it because they ended up asking about ourselves and while our Japanese wasn’t perfect (we said many times ‘mou ichido kudasai’/’can you repeat please?’) we all shared a good laugh. It definitely brought our spirits back up and made for a good end to the day. 

Day two in Hiroshima involved an early morning boat to an island called Miyajima 宮島. It was unofficially img_6501.jpglabeled one of the three most scenic spots in Japan by a Confusian scholar named Shunsai Hayashi in the 1600s and 14% of its land is designated as World Heritage area. 

On that 14% lies tons of temples and shrine, specifically the Itsukushima Shrine 厳島神社. This Shinden style shrine was built in 593 AD to provide dedication to three Munakata goddesses, all deities of the sea, traffic safety (nautical traffic), fortune, and accomplishment. This temple was pretty large in a lateral sense (not particularly tall) but its uniqueness was the water it was built over. Standing on pilings, the temple hovered over a shallow bay like area, and during the day the tide would reveal different structuresimg_6486.jpg laying along the sand, like steps and circular wells (best I can do for a discription; apologies). Looking outwards towards the sea from this temple, a large cedar torii called Otorii 大鳥居 ( 大 means big, 鳥居 is a Shinto archway ) stands out of the water 16.6 meters and weighs 60 tons. You can walk out to it once the tide goes out, which we did later in the day (along with every other tourist and their mothers…literally). 

We then worked our way up the mountain, however, unlike our last few mountain hikes, this one was a bit img_6526.jpgeasier. There are hiking trails available, but they also have ropeways  (cable cars, gondolas, insert any other names for suspended box on a cable here) to bring you to a 430 meter visitor station. From there it was only another 100 meters to the peak, but because it was a very windy  and shallow path, so the ascent took about an hour. The summit was definitely a sight to behold and provided a nice break from the sun. 

The hike down was much smoother. We even made a small detour to the Miyamajinja shrine 御山神社 (that Kanji was super difficult to find), passing some large killer hornets on the way. It ended up being closed, but in hindsight, the detour put us at perfect timing to reach Kiezu-no-Reikado Hall (not figuring out the Kanji for img_6578.jpgthat). This is were the original “eternal flame” burns and has been burning for 1200 years! Entering the hall is difficult at first. Many people pay respects by burning incense, and with the already burning fire in the middle of the building (which is only 3 meters by 3 meters), smoke engulfs you, stinging the eyes and lungs. But pushing through was entirely worth it because as I said, time was on our side. Right above the fire is a large, cast iron pot. You may imagine, like we did, that the pot was for display purposes only and s off limits to touch. To our disbelief, two women reached over to remove the lid, then proceeded to dip a large spoon into it to pull out some water. “Whoa! That’s cool! They are going to through it in the fire or something for prayer or respect….why are they puttng it in a cup?!” As we watched, they turned to us, asked if we wanted some and so became one of the coolest moments of the trip. Sitting in a smoke filled room next to two older women, drinking sacred water, boiled over a 1200 year old flame. Every sip seemed to cool us down some how and forget that there was even smoke in the room. It was relaxing, surreal, and peaceful. All the noises from outside disappeared and the moment itself felt like it was lasting an eternity. Unfortunately we were to zoned out to remember take any pictures, but even if we did, it wouldn’t have felt quite right.

After that, we finished the hike and ropeway backback down to get some food and then catch the ferry. Ignoring the touristy feel to Miyajima is tough, but once we did, we realized how well worth the visit was.

Bonus – there was a lot of deer here as well and I like deer, so hear are more deer pictures. 

Getting back to the hotel, we noticed on the back wall a few moments layed out on a table. It turned out to be photos of some pretry important people, one of which being John Kerry. The hotel had recently held the G7 summit. Guess or hotel was much more important than we originally thought (aside from  it being very nice).

Day trip

Nara Deer Park 奈良 and Osaka 大坂

Friday, July 15th and we’re getting to the more tourist-y part of our travels. We’ll be in Nara for 3 nights as a base camp to visit Osaka and just generally take a breather and relax with the deer. There’s a lot more foreigners on the buses and trains as we travel. So much so, that the cashier lady is surprised when Matt spoke to her in Japanese – I guess not many visitors bother to learn much of the language.

Arriving in Nara on and there were images of deer everywhere – posters on the wall, store toys, food (lots of cookies and candy in deer-shape), and even the busses had leaping deer decals on the sides. Nearly every vendor around the park sells stacks of ¥150 (less than $1.50) deer crackers or shika senbei 鹿せんべい. Not all deer are crazy about them, the fawn seemed more interested in the grass.

The hostel we’re staying at is inside the park so we’ll get to see tame deer everyday. There’s more to the park than just deer, though. Multiple designated world heritage sites are in the area, one of the most famous being the Todaiji Temple 東大寺. Within the temple is one of Japan’s largest statutes of Buddha.

Another temple not too far from Todaiji sits on a hill and at night, is surrounded by large lanterns which offers a serene view overlooking the city of Nara.

The next morning we stopped by Todaiji to get a look inside then moved on to Osaka for the day. First stop was the Umeda city for a beautiful 360 degree view of the city. Then, at Umeda Station we stopped at the Pokémon store but with the huge line we decided to come back another day.

At Osakajo/Osaka Castle, we walked around the grounds and special garden before heading over to the nearby concert hall. Back in the day, Ayumi Hamasaki 浜崎あゆみ was similar to Britney Spears in Japan. She just released her 16th album and we managed to get tickets thank to our wonderful Sapporo Tour Guides. Doors opened at 4pm, she started a bit late at 5:15pm and the final-final encore ended around 8:30pm.

Next day, we took it easy by just wandering the park and hanging out with the deer 🙂

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Nagoya Grand Sumo Tournament

Today was a long one, but filled with non stop excitement. After a light breakfast we made a straight shot to the Nagoya Gymnasium for the Grand Sumo competition.

Sumo is a traditional competition to show feats of strength and power. Though it’s origins predate the Edo period (samurai, shogun and swords era), an organized tournament was not initiated until mid 1600s. Through out the years, Shinto religion played a huge part in morphing the sport from a brute based scene to a ritualistic one.

I use to watch Sumo a lot when I was younger. It was the only interesting thing on ESPN at 6am. After today I realized they cut out a lot from the tournament and individual bouts. Lets start from the beggining of the tournament.
Its East vs West, and the day is broken up into three main competitions; the juniors, the mid levels, and the head hanchos. These classes aren’t broken up by age but instead level of skill and experience. As you would assume though, the junior class had a majority of young, aspiring Rikishi 力士 (this is the name of the person who competes. Sumo is the event and sport itself). The classes arent linked to ech other, each has their own winner between the East and West. I’ll skip a head to the kings of the ring since the lower two classes are very similar except for having less rituals.

“Rituals? What rituals? They just stomp there feet and run at each other!”, you might say. It was surprising how much of the competition was ritualistic and how much was actual action. Before anyone does battle, all the Rikishi from the East walk out in these beautiful aprons (costing up to $20,000 each) and circle the ring while having there names called. They do a chant, walk off and then the West does the same. The ring is made of of dirt and is constantly swept and cleaned. This person called a 呼び出し (which is actually multiple people who switch out with each other to give the others a break) yell out the names of each Rikishi using an almost singing – like voice. This call wasn’t just to announce who was up next, but to call upon the opponents to do battle such that the gods would hear. Once the opponents entered the ring, there is approximately seven more minutes of tradition as the Rikishi continuosly reach their hands to the gods asking for their aid in battle,  throw salt in the ring to purify it of evil, and bow to one another and the gods. Once all this was done, the Rikishi would have at it. And what lasts for all of a minute (at most), is the stupendous force of to immovable clashing together in a fight for victory. 

So, about 12% of the match is action. And while it may seem odd that ESPN always chose to cut out the other 88% when I was younger, I’m glad they did. Watching all of the tradition unfold on television just wouldn’t have done it justice. There was a universal atmosphere that really gets under your skins and excites you to be part of the crowd, to watch with constant anticipation, and to feel like that one minute of battle lasted forever.

Hiking

Dewa Sanzan 出羽三山 Part 2 : Gassan 月山 and Yudonosan 湯殿山

The next morning was a sore one, but it was relieved with a great breakfast. A full platter of vegetables  (most of which we had no idea what they were) with a side of miso soup and rice revitalized our spirits to take on a challenge that was very unexpected in this trip. From previous research, hiking Gassan and Yudonosan was implied to be a long but not to difficult hike. It startedimg_5859.jpg with a bus ride from the top of Haguro to the Gassan 8th station, hachigome, where the trail head starts. The bus actually follows the old pilgrim trail, making that portion of the hike was off limits (thankfully), so hachigome was the closes we could start. Here, lots of people started the early morning journey, with many of them having there friends or families wish them luck with a  “ganbatte!”. And as soon as we started on our journey, and all throughout it, fellow hikers wished us good luck as well, and more importantly, wished us a safe return, “itterasshai!”. 

Unike Yoteisan, Gassan continuously provided motivation during the hike. With only shrubbery filling the land, the Knights Who Say Neep allowed us passage and we had a

You must find us... a shrubbery
You must find us… a shrubbery

constant view of the mountains and lands around us. The elevation map provided to us showed both accent and descent would be a fairly shallow climb, but afterwards we agreed someone needs to have a word with the map makers. Climbing up to Gassan was not too bad. There were lots of miniature mounds and hills along the path itself, preventing us from ever really seeing the peak along the way, some plateaus with flowers and snowy sections, and stone steps to assist with the path up the steeper parts of the trail.

We can’t say too much about the top of Gassan. Words don’t really do it justice as to how peaceful and majestic the view was, and how calming and peaceful the temple felt. Before being allowed entry to the shrine, we were purified by one of the monks. Afterward, we made our way to a restraunt that was a slight walk down the ways to rejuvenate our spirits with some special mountain curry and soba. All in all, we spent about an hour relaxing before setting out to Yudonosan. That’s when the fun really started  (sarcasm intended-which interestingly enough is not really used in Japan).

The view was immediately the best we had all day. But it was a ruse played by the mountain to distract us from the challenge that was right in front of us. While the uphill battle to Gassan provided well defined steps, the down hill did not. It may have at oneimg_5985.jpgwpoint, but for whatever reason, the stone steps seemed to have crumbled over the few hundred years, leaving behind a steep, pebble slope, with a very few well defined stepping points. Our hiking poles did most of the work here, and luckily it only lasted an hour or so. The trek from then on was similar to heading up to Gassan – some uphill, some downhill, more snow trekking, and nice shrubbery. It wasn’t until the last split from the main trail (there were many routes to other locations) that we again img_6115.jpgencountered majestic sights and precarious situations. The first of these was a metal ladder. I think most of us can says we have climbed a ladder at some point in our lives, and that there was not much to it. Now add a 30 pound backpack, hiking poles in one hand, half inch diamond rungs (pointy side up), and 5 hours of img_6117.jpgexhaustion. And did I say ladder? I meant ladders. Four, 20 to 30 feet long, nearly 90 degree ladders, taking a pain-staking 30 minutes to climb down. Needless to say, I think we are now ready for American Ninja Warrior.

When we finally thought all was said and done, the world said “not yet!”. Being old and on a mountain, the rest of the trail had become part of the summer streams in which the mountain water flows down. At first it was nice; crossing the ice cold stream every few hundred meters really made or feet feel great. We even dipped our head in to cool down. Soon after though, the water was constqntly under us as we fllowed the steep bouldery path down towards…somewhere. I’ll admit that when we realized where we were, we also realized we had no idea where we were. The environment surrounding us made it seem as if we had missed the a turn, our chose the wrong path. Eiter way, it didnt really matter since the only way to go was down. What’s once would have been the last 30 minutes turned into just over an hour and change.

We finally reached  Yudonosan exhausted, sunburned, and late. We missed the last bus to Tsuruoka station (to catch our train to Niigats) but we’re somehow super lucky enough that the last 3 people there were getting ready to drive home. Where did they live exactly? You guessed it…Tsuruoka! When they realized we would have been20160712_175338.jpg stranded in the middle of nowhere, they offered to give us a ride back to the train station. The end of the day, and one of the most memberable ones, was cruising down the left side of a highway, listening and communicating with three suprisingly young looking (they were in there 60s looking 40s), with Stevie Wonder’s Ebony and Ivory playing in the background.

Dewa Sanzan 出羽三山 Part 1: Travel to Tsuruoka 鶴岡 and Haguro-san 羽黒山

Yet another early morning! The trip to Tsuruoka started by leaving Aomori at 5:45am so we can arrive at 11:06am. The trains took us past a wide valley surrounded by mountains then at Akita, we turned to be parallel along the western coast that gave us views of the Sea of Japan until arriving to our destination.

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Tsuruoka is a small city next but our main goal was to hike Dewa Sanzan 出羽三山, a trio mountains that were part of an ancient pilgrimage route 1,400 years ago. The three mountains, Mt. Haguro 羽黒山, Mt. Gassan 月山, and Mt. Yudono 湯殿山, in that order represent the past, present, and future. Although, I’ve also read they also represent birth, death, and rebirth. Regardless, more information can be found here: http://wikitravel.org/en/Dewa_Sanzan

Today, we trek 1.7 km to the top Mt. Haguro. This involves ascending 2,446 stone steps and passing a 400 year-old manmade waterfall. There is also a small clearing along the way that contains a wooden five-story pagoda built from 931 to 937 as well as a 1,000 year-old Japanese cedar called Jijisugi, or Grandpa Tree. Halfway up the steps, the was a cute café that offered a certificate for climbing the steps and sold delicious homemade mochi.

Right before the top, we dropped by our place for the night, Saikan, a former Buddhist temple. We’ll have a traditional Buddhist dinner and breakfast featuring vegetables grown on the mountain.

Day trip

Aomori & Sannai-Maruyama 青森と三内丸山遺跡

Saturday, July 9th we had a slow morning of laundry, breakfast, and packing. Our Sapporo tour guides treated us to an amazing sushi lunch and sent us off with amazing chocolate as we hopped on the 1:35pm train to Aomori. We enjoyed the view from our seaside seats on our 5hr trip down.

After checking into our ryokan 旅館 (we happened to get the same exact room Matt got last year!), we ventured out for some ramen. A ryokan is in a way like an eastern Bed ‘n Breakfast Inn (I’m assuming as I’ve never been to one haha) and the hostess cheerfully directed us to a good local ramen shop. We arrived to an empty shop, but we (Matt) mustered up the courage to ask if they were open. While neither husband or wife spoke English, we were able to place our orders: Matt got the spicy version and I enjoyed the butter/miso. Turns out we got there just in time as when we left all other seats had been taken.

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On Sunday, to start off our daytrip exploring Aomori, we had an easy morning waking up pretty ‘late’ (7am). For breakfast, we decided we’d try non-convenience store food and wandered a bit around town.
A big multi-story building caught our eye and we followed the universal fork and knife symbols to the lower level where we found a fish market! It must have been off-peak hours as it was pretty sparse. Still, we walked along to the end of one row and came across a quaint food stall. After some miscommunication about which side of the corner stall was breakfast versus lunch, we ended up getting a 5-plate breakfast dish with miso soup. The sides we chose were fried fish, two kinds of octopus (we think), and egg たまご. The shopkeepers were incredibly welcoming and a fellow diner even gave us local tomatoes to try. The pictures alone doesn’t show just how amazing the experience was.

Making our way down south to Sannai-Maruyama was a fun journey on the local trains. Sannai-Maruyama is a nationally protected historical site of the Jomon people who settled there 5, 500 to 4, 000 years ago. Discoveries in the area include pit-dwellings, pillar-supported buildings, and numerous pottery and stone objects. The largest structure was recreated based off the remanents of large chestnut posts that were 1 meter in diameter.


Getting back to Aomori, we headed over to the tourism center for dinner and dessert. The region is famous for its apples!

Hiking

Sapporo Day 2 – Mt. Yotei

Friday, July 8th was Mt. Yotei! Also known as Hokkaido’s Mt. Fuji, it’s just south of Sapporo, but there is no direct train there. To get there we need to go west to Otaru then south to Kucchan station. Furthermore, a local bus drops us off to a stop where we still need to walk up a hill to take us to the trailhead. Navigating in Sapporo morning rush hour was a bit tough, and carrying 2.5 liters of water was vastly different than lighter, not-slushing-around-with-every-step clothes.

Timewise, we boarded our Sapporo train at 8:43am and arrived at the trailhead at 11:50am. As the entire roundtrip hike takes just about 9hrs and since this was the earliest we could get here from Sapporo, we did not hike to the summit. If we did, the last 1/3 of the way down would have been pretty much in the dark; not to mention we’d miss the last bus to the station. There was a hut near the summit that was free to stay at, but we totally did not pack enough water/food for an overnight hike. Oh well, guess we’ll just have to make a trip back sometime!

For Japanese mountain hikes, trails are typically divided into 10 ‘stations’ or markers. They’re not necessarily equally separated, but are at nice resting points. From the trailhead to about station 1 is what’s described as a ‘gentle slope’, but that’s certainly relative. Although, once we got further along we could certainly see why it was referred to so lightly. Even just an hour into the hike we got amazing views of the valley below. Once we got into the groove of utilizing our hiking poles, we were able to ascend 100m in an average of 20 mins.

It seemed like it had recently rained due to the damp soil on the trail – we even saw a couple of freshly fallen trees! There were only a few bugs at the beginning, then it was mostly the sound of various birds chirping (with the occasional jingling from japanese hikers passing back down – apparently it’s common to wear bells to ward off unwanted wildlife) that occupied the hike.

Day trip

Sapporo Day 1 – Hair cuts and walking

Woke up bright and early again the next morning, this time to get hair cuts (but also because we’re still adjusting to the new timezone). Matt’s appointment was first at Rosy’s Make Hair – no one spoke fluent english, so a picture of Tom Hardy did all the talking. Cassandra’s haircut was on the opposite end of the city and took about 4 laps around the same block until we actually saw the building (it wasn’t hiding or hard to see… we just somehow kept walking past it). Luckily, Salon 77 had someone who spoke a good bit of english. Rumi-chan was awesome and taught Cassandra some japanese (apparently kami is both hair and paper! But it’s written differently: 髪 for hair and 紙 for paper).

We showed off our new do’s by walking to Nakajima park. On the way, we stopped at our first Japanese temple. It was really empty where the only sounds heard were from the monstrous crows. We had a snack of yakisoba and takoyaki at the park entrance before moving on. For being a weekday, there was a variety of ages in people enjoying the park. A small observatory sat on a little hill; the curator, Hiyama-san 樋山克明, had set up a solar telescope and also pointed the main telescope toward the sun for two different elemental filters. We (mostly Matt) spent about 20 mins chatting up the curator and learning about the local science center’s astronomical studies as well as Japanse versions for constellation names.

The picturesque scenery gave us a chance to practice some photography skills. One landmark, known as Hasso-an, was an old teahouse – original date unknown, but there was recorded use in 1700.

Dinner was a special treat of yakiniku 焼肉 which is grilled meat. One can order a variety of meat (different grades/sections) and vegetables and use the grill at the table to cook it to personal preference. Green tea ice cream with mochi and something similar to corn flakes topped off an amazing meal. Our 2nd full day in Japan and we have over 20k steps… this is going to be a long trip.

We pretty much walked in large circles
Somehow Matt had over 30k…

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Travelling

Travelling to Japan

Good Morning Sapporo! おはようさっぽろ!

Main image is of the local area near Sapporo Station around 07:00am.

Our long journey to get here started with over 13 hrs of flying/being in airports. The flight included a nice japanese dinner with a solid cup of Häagen-Dazs! While the sun was up for nearly all of the flight eventually the windows were all closed for everyone to go sleep.

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Once we arrived to Narita Tokyo airport, we took the hotel shuttle Tobu Narita Hotel. Our first Japan experience was a cool mix of old and new. There were traditional yukatas to wear and bedside smart console that controls everything from the clock/alarm and radio (which connects to speakers in the bathroom) to the room lights and a/c.

The next morning we caught the 5:30am shuttle to bring us back to the airport so we could catch the various trains to take us to Sapporo. At least this trip was shorter – taking just about 10 hours. Most of the trip was riding super fast japanese bullet trains, or shinkansen, using our JR (Japan Rail) Pass. The JR Pass let’s us ride as many trains as we want (that are part of their company) for 28 days. For this trip, there were transfers in Sendai and Hakudate. For food, we grabbed some quick snacks from 7-11. Our whole breakfast cost ¥847 (about $8)! We also grabbed some train station lunch boxes (ekiben).

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At Sapporo, we dropped off our bags at our friend Brett’s spacious, 100 square foot apartment (typical size for students) and grabbed some much needed ramen (20 minute walk).

Oishi
Sapporo Ramen