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Hiking

Dewa Sanzan 出羽三山 Part 2 : Gassan 月山 and Yudonosan 湯殿山

The next morning was a sore one, but it was relieved with a great breakfast. A full platter of vegetables  (most of which we had no idea what they were) with a side of miso soup and rice revitalized our spirits to take on a challenge that was very unexpected in this trip. From previous research, hiking Gassan and Yudonosan was implied to be a long but not to difficult hike. It startedimg_5859.jpg with a bus ride from the top of Haguro to the Gassan 8th station, hachigome, where the trail head starts. The bus actually follows the old pilgrim trail, making that portion of the hike was off limits (thankfully), so hachigome was the closes we could start. Here, lots of people started the early morning journey, with many of them having there friends or families wish them luck with a  “ganbatte!”. And as soon as we started on our journey, and all throughout it, fellow hikers wished us good luck as well, and more importantly, wished us a safe return, “itterasshai!”. 

Unike Yoteisan, Gassan continuously provided motivation during the hike. With only shrubbery filling the land, the Knights Who Say Neep allowed us passage and we had a

You must find us... a shrubbery
You must find us… a shrubbery

constant view of the mountains and lands around us. The elevation map provided to us showed both accent and descent would be a fairly shallow climb, but afterwards we agreed someone needs to have a word with the map makers. Climbing up to Gassan was not too bad. There were lots of miniature mounds and hills along the path itself, preventing us from ever really seeing the peak along the way, some plateaus with flowers and snowy sections, and stone steps to assist with the path up the steeper parts of the trail.

We can’t say too much about the top of Gassan. Words don’t really do it justice as to how peaceful and majestic the view was, and how calming and peaceful the temple felt. Before being allowed entry to the shrine, we were purified by one of the monks. Afterward, we made our way to a restraunt that was a slight walk down the ways to rejuvenate our spirits with some special mountain curry and soba. All in all, we spent about an hour relaxing before setting out to Yudonosan. That’s when the fun really started  (sarcasm intended-which interestingly enough is not really used in Japan).

The view was immediately the best we had all day. But it was a ruse played by the mountain to distract us from the challenge that was right in front of us. While the uphill battle to Gassan provided well defined steps, the down hill did not. It may have at oneimg_5985.jpgwpoint, but for whatever reason, the stone steps seemed to have crumbled over the few hundred years, leaving behind a steep, pebble slope, with a very few well defined stepping points. Our hiking poles did most of the work here, and luckily it only lasted an hour or so. The trek from then on was similar to heading up to Gassan – some uphill, some downhill, more snow trekking, and nice shrubbery. It wasn’t until the last split from the main trail (there were many routes to other locations) that we again img_6115.jpgencountered majestic sights and precarious situations. The first of these was a metal ladder. I think most of us can says we have climbed a ladder at some point in our lives, and that there was not much to it. Now add a 30 pound backpack, hiking poles in one hand, half inch diamond rungs (pointy side up), and 5 hours of img_6117.jpgexhaustion. And did I say ladder? I meant ladders. Four, 20 to 30 feet long, nearly 90 degree ladders, taking a pain-staking 30 minutes to climb down. Needless to say, I think we are now ready for American Ninja Warrior.

When we finally thought all was said and done, the world said “not yet!”. Being old and on a mountain, the rest of the trail had become part of the summer streams in which the mountain water flows down. At first it was nice; crossing the ice cold stream every few hundred meters really made or feet feel great. We even dipped our head in to cool down. Soon after though, the water was constqntly under us as we fllowed the steep bouldery path down towards…somewhere. I’ll admit that when we realized where we were, we also realized we had no idea where we were. The environment surrounding us made it seem as if we had missed the a turn, our chose the wrong path. Eiter way, it didnt really matter since the only way to go was down. What’s once would have been the last 30 minutes turned into just over an hour and change.

We finally reached  Yudonosan exhausted, sunburned, and late. We missed the last bus to Tsuruoka station (to catch our train to Niigats) but we’re somehow super lucky enough that the last 3 people there were getting ready to drive home. Where did they live exactly? You guessed it…Tsuruoka! When they realized we would have been20160712_175338.jpg stranded in the middle of nowhere, they offered to give us a ride back to the train station. The end of the day, and one of the most memberable ones, was cruising down the left side of a highway, listening and communicating with three suprisingly young looking (they were in there 60s looking 40s), with Stevie Wonder’s Ebony and Ivory playing in the background.

Day trip

Aomori & Sannai-Maruyama 青森と三内丸山遺跡

Saturday, July 9th we had a slow morning of laundry, breakfast, and packing. Our Sapporo tour guides treated us to an amazing sushi lunch and sent us off with amazing chocolate as we hopped on the 1:35pm train to Aomori. We enjoyed the view from our seaside seats on our 5hr trip down.

After checking into our ryokan 旅館 (we happened to get the same exact room Matt got last year!), we ventured out for some ramen. A ryokan is in a way like an eastern Bed ‘n Breakfast Inn (I’m assuming as I’ve never been to one haha) and the hostess cheerfully directed us to a good local ramen shop. We arrived to an empty shop, but we (Matt) mustered up the courage to ask if they were open. While neither husband or wife spoke English, we were able to place our orders: Matt got the spicy version and I enjoyed the butter/miso. Turns out we got there just in time as when we left all other seats had been taken.

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On Sunday, to start off our daytrip exploring Aomori, we had an easy morning waking up pretty ‘late’ (7am). For breakfast, we decided we’d try non-convenience store food and wandered a bit around town.
A big multi-story building caught our eye and we followed the universal fork and knife symbols to the lower level where we found a fish market! It must have been off-peak hours as it was pretty sparse. Still, we walked along to the end of one row and came across a quaint food stall. After some miscommunication about which side of the corner stall was breakfast versus lunch, we ended up getting a 5-plate breakfast dish with miso soup. The sides we chose were fried fish, two kinds of octopus (we think), and egg たまご. The shopkeepers were incredibly welcoming and a fellow diner even gave us local tomatoes to try. The pictures alone doesn’t show just how amazing the experience was.

Making our way down south to Sannai-Maruyama was a fun journey on the local trains. Sannai-Maruyama is a nationally protected historical site of the Jomon people who settled there 5, 500 to 4, 000 years ago. Discoveries in the area include pit-dwellings, pillar-supported buildings, and numerous pottery and stone objects. The largest structure was recreated based off the remanents of large chestnut posts that were 1 meter in diameter.


Getting back to Aomori, we headed over to the tourism center for dinner and dessert. The region is famous for its apples!