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Dewa Sanzan 出羽三山 Part 2 : Gassan 月山 and Yudonosan 湯殿山

The next morning was a sore one, but it was relieved with a great breakfast. A full platter of vegetables  (most of which we had no idea what they were) with a side of miso soup and rice revitalized our spirits to take on a challenge that was very unexpected in this trip. From previous research, hiking Gassan and Yudonosan was implied to be a long but not to difficult hike. It startedimg_5859.jpg with a bus ride from the top of Haguro to the Gassan 8th station, hachigome, where the trail head starts. The bus actually follows the old pilgrim trail, making that portion of the hike was off limits (thankfully), so hachigome was the closes we could start. Here, lots of people started the early morning journey, with many of them having there friends or families wish them luck with a  “ganbatte!”. And as soon as we started on our journey, and all throughout it, fellow hikers wished us good luck as well, and more importantly, wished us a safe return, “itterasshai!”. 

Unike Yoteisan, Gassan continuously provided motivation during the hike. With only shrubbery filling the land, the Knights Who Say Neep allowed us passage and we had a

You must find us... a shrubbery
You must find us… a shrubbery

constant view of the mountains and lands around us. The elevation map provided to us showed both accent and descent would be a fairly shallow climb, but afterwards we agreed someone needs to have a word with the map makers. Climbing up to Gassan was not too bad. There were lots of miniature mounds and hills along the path itself, preventing us from ever really seeing the peak along the way, some plateaus with flowers and snowy sections, and stone steps to assist with the path up the steeper parts of the trail.

We can’t say too much about the top of Gassan. Words don’t really do it justice as to how peaceful and majestic the view was, and how calming and peaceful the temple felt. Before being allowed entry to the shrine, we were purified by one of the monks. Afterward, we made our way to a restraunt that was a slight walk down the ways to rejuvenate our spirits with some special mountain curry and soba. All in all, we spent about an hour relaxing before setting out to Yudonosan. That’s when the fun really started  (sarcasm intended-which interestingly enough is not really used in Japan).

The view was immediately the best we had all day. But it was a ruse played by the mountain to distract us from the challenge that was right in front of us. While the uphill battle to Gassan provided well defined steps, the down hill did not. It may have at oneimg_5985.jpgwpoint, but for whatever reason, the stone steps seemed to have crumbled over the few hundred years, leaving behind a steep, pebble slope, with a very few well defined stepping points. Our hiking poles did most of the work here, and luckily it only lasted an hour or so. The trek from then on was similar to heading up to Gassan – some uphill, some downhill, more snow trekking, and nice shrubbery. It wasn’t until the last split from the main trail (there were many routes to other locations) that we again img_6115.jpgencountered majestic sights and precarious situations. The first of these was a metal ladder. I think most of us can says we have climbed a ladder at some point in our lives, and that there was not much to it. Now add a 30 pound backpack, hiking poles in one hand, half inch diamond rungs (pointy side up), and 5 hours of img_6117.jpgexhaustion. And did I say ladder? I meant ladders. Four, 20 to 30 feet long, nearly 90 degree ladders, taking a pain-staking 30 minutes to climb down. Needless to say, I think we are now ready for American Ninja Warrior.

When we finally thought all was said and done, the world said “not yet!”. Being old and on a mountain, the rest of the trail had become part of the summer streams in which the mountain water flows down. At first it was nice; crossing the ice cold stream every few hundred meters really made or feet feel great. We even dipped our head in to cool down. Soon after though, the water was constqntly under us as we fllowed the steep bouldery path down towards…somewhere. I’ll admit that when we realized where we were, we also realized we had no idea where we were. The environment surrounding us made it seem as if we had missed the a turn, our chose the wrong path. Eiter way, it didnt really matter since the only way to go was down. What’s once would have been the last 30 minutes turned into just over an hour and change.

We finally reached  Yudonosan exhausted, sunburned, and late. We missed the last bus to Tsuruoka station (to catch our train to Niigats) but we’re somehow super lucky enough that the last 3 people there were getting ready to drive home. Where did they live exactly? You guessed it…Tsuruoka! When they realized we would have been20160712_175338.jpg stranded in the middle of nowhere, they offered to give us a ride back to the train station. The end of the day, and one of the most memberable ones, was cruising down the left side of a highway, listening and communicating with three suprisingly young looking (they were in there 60s looking 40s), with Stevie Wonder’s Ebony and Ivory playing in the background.

Dewa Sanzan 出羽三山 Part 1: Travel to Tsuruoka 鶴岡 and Haguro-san 羽黒山

Yet another early morning! The trip to Tsuruoka started by leaving Aomori at 5:45am so we can arrive at 11:06am. The trains took us past a wide valley surrounded by mountains then at Akita, we turned to be parallel along the western coast that gave us views of the Sea of Japan until arriving to our destination.

IMG_5808

Tsuruoka is a small city next but our main goal was to hike Dewa Sanzan 出羽三山, a trio mountains that were part of an ancient pilgrimage route 1,400 years ago. The three mountains, Mt. Haguro 羽黒山, Mt. Gassan 月山, and Mt. Yudono 湯殿山, in that order represent the past, present, and future. Although, I’ve also read they also represent birth, death, and rebirth. Regardless, more information can be found here: http://wikitravel.org/en/Dewa_Sanzan

Today, we trek 1.7 km to the top Mt. Haguro. This involves ascending 2,446 stone steps and passing a 400 year-old manmade waterfall. There is also a small clearing along the way that contains a wooden five-story pagoda built from 931 to 937 as well as a 1,000 year-old Japanese cedar called Jijisugi, or Grandpa Tree. Halfway up the steps, the was a cute café that offered a certificate for climbing the steps and sold delicious homemade mochi.

Right before the top, we dropped by our place for the night, Saikan, a former Buddhist temple. We’ll have a traditional Buddhist dinner and breakfast featuring vegetables grown on the mountain.

Hiking

Sapporo Day 2 – Mt. Yotei

Friday, July 8th was Mt. Yotei! Also known as Hokkaido’s Mt. Fuji, it’s just south of Sapporo, but there is no direct train there. To get there we need to go west to Otaru then south to Kucchan station. Furthermore, a local bus drops us off to a stop where we still need to walk up a hill to take us to the trailhead. Navigating in Sapporo morning rush hour was a bit tough, and carrying 2.5 liters of water was vastly different than lighter, not-slushing-around-with-every-step clothes.

Timewise, we boarded our Sapporo train at 8:43am and arrived at the trailhead at 11:50am. As the entire roundtrip hike takes just about 9hrs and since this was the earliest we could get here from Sapporo, we did not hike to the summit. If we did, the last 1/3 of the way down would have been pretty much in the dark; not to mention we’d miss the last bus to the station. There was a hut near the summit that was free to stay at, but we totally did not pack enough water/food for an overnight hike. Oh well, guess we’ll just have to make a trip back sometime!

For Japanese mountain hikes, trails are typically divided into 10 ‘stations’ or markers. They’re not necessarily equally separated, but are at nice resting points. From the trailhead to about station 1 is what’s described as a ‘gentle slope’, but that’s certainly relative. Although, once we got further along we could certainly see why it was referred to so lightly. Even just an hour into the hike we got amazing views of the valley below. Once we got into the groove of utilizing our hiking poles, we were able to ascend 100m in an average of 20 mins.

It seemed like it had recently rained due to the damp soil on the trail – we even saw a couple of freshly fallen trees! There were only a few bugs at the beginning, then it was mostly the sound of various birds chirping (with the occasional jingling from japanese hikers passing back down – apparently it’s common to wear bells to ward off unwanted wildlife) that occupied the hike.