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Dewa Sanzan 出羽三山 Part 1: Travel to Tsuruoka 鶴岡 and Haguro-san 羽黒山

Yet another early morning! The trip to Tsuruoka started by leaving Aomori at 5:45am so we can arrive at 11:06am. The trains took us past a wide valley surrounded by mountains then at Akita, we turned to be parallel along the western coast that gave us views of the Sea of Japan until arriving to our destination.

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Tsuruoka is a small city next but our main goal was to hike Dewa Sanzan 出羽三山, a trio mountains that were part of an ancient pilgrimage route 1,400 years ago. The three mountains, Mt. Haguro 羽黒山, Mt. Gassan 月山, and Mt. Yudono 湯殿山, in that order represent the past, present, and future. Although, I’ve also read they also represent birth, death, and rebirth. Regardless, more information can be found here: http://wikitravel.org/en/Dewa_Sanzan

Today, we trek 1.7 km to the top Mt. Haguro. This involves ascending 2,446 stone steps and passing a 400 year-old manmade waterfall. There is also a small clearing along the way that contains a wooden five-story pagoda built from 931 to 937 as well as a 1,000 year-old Japanese cedar called Jijisugi, or Grandpa Tree. Halfway up the steps, the was a cute café that offered a certificate for climbing the steps and sold delicious homemade mochi.

Right before the top, we dropped by our place for the night, Saikan, a former Buddhist temple. We’ll have a traditional Buddhist dinner and breakfast featuring vegetables grown on the mountain.

Hiking

Sapporo Day 2 – Mt. Yotei

Friday, July 8th was Mt. Yotei! Also known as Hokkaido’s Mt. Fuji, it’s just south of Sapporo, but there is no direct train there. To get there we need to go west to Otaru then south to Kucchan station. Furthermore, a local bus drops us off to a stop where we still need to walk up a hill to take us to the trailhead. Navigating in Sapporo morning rush hour was a bit tough, and carrying 2.5 liters of water was vastly different than lighter, not-slushing-around-with-every-step clothes.

Timewise, we boarded our Sapporo train at 8:43am and arrived at the trailhead at 11:50am. As the entire roundtrip hike takes just about 9hrs and since this was the earliest we could get here from Sapporo, we did not hike to the summit. If we did, the last 1/3 of the way down would have been pretty much in the dark; not to mention we’d miss the last bus to the station. There was a hut near the summit that was free to stay at, but we totally did not pack enough water/food for an overnight hike. Oh well, guess we’ll just have to make a trip back sometime!

For Japanese mountain hikes, trails are typically divided into 10 ‘stations’ or markers. They’re not necessarily equally separated, but are at nice resting points. From the trailhead to about station 1 is what’s described as a ‘gentle slope’, but that’s certainly relative. Although, once we got further along we could certainly see why it was referred to so lightly. Even just an hour into the hike we got amazing views of the valley below. Once we got into the groove of utilizing our hiking poles, we were able to ascend 100m in an average of 20 mins.

It seemed like it had recently rained due to the damp soil on the trail – we even saw a couple of freshly fallen trees! There were only a few bugs at the beginning, then it was mostly the sound of various birds chirping (with the occasional jingling from japanese hikers passing back down – apparently it’s common to wear bells to ward off unwanted wildlife) that occupied the hike.

Travelling

Travelling to Japan

Good Morning Sapporo! おはようさっぽろ!

Main image is of the local area near Sapporo Station around 07:00am.

Our long journey to get here started with over 13 hrs of flying/being in airports. The flight included a nice japanese dinner with a solid cup of Häagen-Dazs! While the sun was up for nearly all of the flight eventually the windows were all closed for everyone to go sleep.

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Once we arrived to Narita Tokyo airport, we took the hotel shuttle Tobu Narita Hotel. Our first Japan experience was a cool mix of old and new. There were traditional yukatas to wear and bedside smart console that controls everything from the clock/alarm and radio (which connects to speakers in the bathroom) to the room lights and a/c.

The next morning we caught the 5:30am shuttle to bring us back to the airport so we could catch the various trains to take us to Sapporo. At least this trip was shorter – taking just about 10 hours. Most of the trip was riding super fast japanese bullet trains, or shinkansen, using our JR (Japan Rail) Pass. The JR Pass let’s us ride as many trains as we want (that are part of their company) for 28 days. For this trip, there were transfers in Sendai and Hakudate. For food, we grabbed some quick snacks from 7-11. Our whole breakfast cost ¥847 (about $8)! We also grabbed some train station lunch boxes (ekiben).

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At Sapporo, we dropped off our bags at our friend Brett’s spacious, 100 square foot apartment (typical size for students) and grabbed some much needed ramen (20 minute walk).

Oishi
Sapporo Ramen